110. Myddleton House Gardens, 2 February 2024


Snowdrops – a harbinger of spring, with their pure white wing-like petals and a green heart, poking up through the bare earth (or even snow), reminding us in the gloom of winter that beauty and colour will return.

And what better time to go and see them than on 2 February, on the Feast of Candlemas, as another name for snowdrops is Candlemas Bells. 

So Martin and I escaped from our desks and went to Myddelton House, near Enfield, renowned for its snowdrops in the gardens created by horticulturist E A Bowles.  Now the headquarters of Lee Valley Regional Park Authority, Myddelton House was completed in 1818 and named in honour of Sir Hugh Myddelton as the New River ran through the grounds.




Work on the River Lee Navigation had begun in 1425, enabling grain from East Anglia to be transported to London, essential for the brewing industry, as beer was the beverage of choice before clean drinking water was available.  In 1609 Hugh Myddelton had the idea of constructing a canal parallel to the River Lee to bring clean water to the City of London.  This new river initially cut through the grounds of Myddelton House Gardens, built on the site of Elsyng Palace, one of Henry VIII’s palaces, which housed a popular bowling green.

The New River Company (later the Metropolitan Water Board) employed Walksmen to patrol the river’s 19 sections.  They had their own keys to enable them to enter and leave the section flowing through the Myddelton Gardens.  Their duties included cutting and pulling out the continually growing water weeds, scything the grass banks, dredging mud, repairing leaks, removing branches and animals that had fallen in, as well as the occasional human body.  They also saw off vandals, trespassers and illegal fishermen, as well as preventing the theft of water.  One local brewery was found to have pipes running through the river bank and into the New River.  Walksmen were armed with cudgels, in much the same way as later policemen. 

In 1859 a further New Cut was developed, meaning the river flowing through Myddelton Gardens was bypassed.  Eventually, in 1967, this section was filled in, with spoil from building the Victoria Line.

The original owner of the house was Henry Carrington Bowles.  His ancestors, the Garnaults, were wealthy Huguenot refugees.  They fled France in 1684 and invested their money in the New River Company.  In 1724 Michael Garnault bought a Tudor Mansion called Bowling Green House, located in what is now the Myddelton House gardens.  The last of the Garnaults, Anne, was married to Henry Carrington Bowles who demolished Bowling Green House and built what is now Myddelton House, passing it down to his great grandson E A Bowles, one of the greatest gardeners of the 20th century.  Bowles maintained the house as it had been in his parents’ time, with no gas, electricity or telephone, and kept a Walksman’s cudgel by his bedside in case of intruders.  Despite the house now being in public ownership, the family connection with the place has continued, with Brigadier Andrew Parker Bowles OBE being the President of the E A Bowles of Myddelton House Society.

Bowles was a self-taught horticulturalist who developed a remarkable garden, facilitated research on medicinal properties of plants which is still carried out in the gardens, and was a local philanthropist and educationalist.  He hybridised many new forms of plants, and was nicknamed “the Crocus King”.  Certainly crocus and snowdrops were prolific in the gardens.

Bowles was not a fan of the local water, commenting “One of my troubles is the well-known hardness of the New River water. Derived mainly from chalk wells, it is so hard that one feels it would be scarcely a miracle to walk on it.”

Wandering round the grounds and learning of the history, we felt a connection with both Myddelton and Bowles, and enjoyed the beauty of flowers, particularly snowdrops growing wild, in the early February sun.

Entry is free, although there is a small charge for parking.  A café provides refreshments, including light lunches.  The gardens are easily accessible, just off J25 of the M25.  It was a refreshing and rejuvenating visit.


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